Abolitionist jewellery of the anti-slavery motion.

We’re going to take a look at the abolitionist jewellery of the anti-slavery motion, an interesting jewellery class that’s as vital as it’s uncommon.

This Wedgewood anti-slavery medallion, circa 1887, says 'Am I Not a Man and a Brother' and was made to support the abolitionist cause. Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Tomorrow is Juneteenth: a day honoring June 19, 1865; the long-overdue day when the enslaved folks of america have been lastly free. This seems like the right time to discover the fascinating historical past of abolitionist jewellery and its position within the 18th and nineteenth century anti-slavery motion.

Very similar to the social justice warriors of the Suffragette motion, the vast majority of critical abolitionists didn’t dedicate a lot of their time, cash, or vitality into jewellery that triumphed their trigger. True examples of abolitionist jewellery are scarce as a result of not a lot of it was created.

We’re going to start by taking a look at one very influential sort of abolitionist jewellery with examples from museum collections, after which we’re going to take a look at two examples of abolitionist jewellery that I’ve had the distinction of photographing personally. After that, we are going to study these artworks via a contemporary lens and spotlight their problematic parts.

This text was made doable by quite a few educated sources, all of that are credited on the finish.

The Wedgwood medallion

The very best recognized abolitionist jewellery is the Wedgwood anti-slavery medallion. The picture on the high of the web page exhibits a circa 1787 instance from The Metropolitan Museum of Artwork whereas the one beneath, in an embellished body, is from the The Artwork Institute of Chicago.

Designed by Josiah Wedgwood in 1787, the Wedgwood anti-slavery medallion was created for the Society for the Abolition of the Slave Commerce, a London-based group devoted to publicizing their trigger via dissemination of anti-slavery books, pamphlets, prints, and artifacts.

The Wedgwood medallions have been distributed on the Society’s conferences totally free to advertise consciousness. Sometimes produced in black and white jasperware (a kind of pottery), as a substitute of the Wedgwood firm’s signature blue and white, the Wedgwood anti-slavery medallion depicts the the determine of an enslaved Black man in chains and a loincloth, kneeling in a subservient posture, along with his palms clasped in supplication, beneath the phrases “Am I not a person and a brother.”

The medallions have been very fashionable amongst abolitionists of the time: hundreds have been produced and set into abolitionist jewellery within the type of pendants, bracelets, hair equipment, brooches, buckles and extra.

The Wedgwood medallion originated in England, however it quickly made its solution to the American abolitionists. In 1788, Josiah Wedgwood included 500 Wedgwood anti-slavery medallions with a letter to Benjamin Franklin, who was President of the Philadelphia Society for the Abolition of Slavery on the time.

This copper abolitionist token was created by Gibbs, Gardner and Company for the American Anti-Slavery society in 1838.

Wedgwood’s design was extensively utilized in abolitionist pamphlets and different paraphernalia on each side of the Atlantic. The above is an American tackle the motif exhibiting an enslaved lady as a substitute of an enslaved man, with the phrases “Am I not a lady and a sister.” This instance is a copper token created by Gibbs, Gardner and Firm for the American Anti-Slavery society in 1838, a full fifty years after Wedgwood’s unique medallion.

A implausible instance of how far the affect of Wedgwood’s design really reached.

An Abolitionist Miniature

This beautiful instance of abolitionist jewellery was within the assortment of Sandy Jacobs Antiques after I visited their sales space on the 2023 Washington Winter Antiques present. This miniature caught my eye instantly, and the eminently educated Sandy was variety sufficient it inform me all about it whereas I photographed it.

An exquisite example of abolitionist jewelry, this pendant features a miniature inspired by the Wedgewood anti-slavery medallion. From Sandy Jacobs Antiques.

Are you able to see why we began with Wedgwood? This piece additionally dates to the late 1700’s however is rather more excessive finish than the British jasperware medallions. It makes use of the identical motif and the identical slogan – the artist was clearly impressed by Wedgwood’s design.

The extra carefully you take a look at this piece, the extra spectacular it turns into. A tiny oil portray on an ivory plaque, this miniature’s each hand-painted brushstroke completed impossibly miniscule particulars with nice precision. You possibly can see every the kneeling determine’s facial options and hair, the curve of every letter, even the destructive house contained in the hyperlinks of the chain.

The determine even seems to be carrying a gold earring, a element not included in Wedgwood’s unique design.

Detail and back view of abolitionist jewelry with miniature inspired by Wedgewood anti-slavery medallion. From Sandy Jacobs Antiques.

This ivory miniature is backed with gold and encased by a domed lens. It began life as a brooch however was later transformed to a pendant.

This piece’s origin is unknown. Was it commissioned by a abolitionist with cash to spare? Did a jeweler pleasant to the trigger create it as a ardour venture, or for their very own private assortment? Maybe it was gifted to a distinguished determine in hopes that they’d put on it publicly and lift consciousness.

No matter its story, to name this specific piece of abolitionist jewellery uncommon is an understatement. I’ve by no means seen one other one prefer it and I most likely by no means will.

An Abolitionist Fob

I discussed above that the miniature from Sandy Jacobs Antiques was the primary piece of abolitionist jewellery I encountered in my profession. This fob was the second piece I ever noticed, and I occurred throughout it on the identical day of the 2023 Washington Winter Antiques Present, at The Spare Room Antiques’ sales space.

Each have been probability discoveries: I simply occurred to spy each items of their respective instances and was fortunate sufficient to have relationships with each sellers that meant I may ask for a more in-depth look.

Antique seal fob with carved carnelian seal encouraging the abolition of slavery in France. Antique abolitionist jewelry from The Spare Room Antiques.

This heavy 18 karat gold fob is ready with a carved carnelian seal that bears the phrases “PURUM PATIENTIA FRANCE,” which interprets to “Underneath a transparent sky, France suffers.” Above the phrases is what seems to be a household crest with a stylized Black male determine’s face above a crown.

This fob’s abolitionist message is extra indirect than the Wedgwood medallion or the miniature, however Jen Shapiro and Jackie Smelkinson of The Spare Room Antiques have been variety sufficient to provide me a mini historical past lesson on its significance.

In their very own phrases:

“However the phrase ‘France’ within the inscription, our wax seal fob is English. The seal harkens again to the British abolitionist motion in France, throughout which era the British folks actively sought to stress the French to abolish slavery.

This fob seal exhibits the robust anti-slavery motion that existed among the many British following the reinstatement of slavery by Napoleon. It was the anti-slavery motion in England which induced the second abolition of slavery in France via the July Revolution of 1848, which formally abolished slavery in France as soon as and for all.”

A 19th century fob with carved carnelian seal encouraging the abolition of slavery in France. Antique abolitionist jewelry from The Spare Room Antiques.

I’m significantly fascinated by the determine carved into this fob. In contrast to the Wedgwood design, this man isn’t subservient and submissive or begging for assist. He stands proud and tall, above a crown, along with his hair tied again by a ribbon bow.

Are we taking a look at a free Black man, thriving in France’s theoretical anti-slavery future? I’m not positive, however I believe it’s doable.

The fob itself encompasses a wealthy design of stylized acanthus leaves, a motif generally utilized in mourning jewellery and headstone engravings. Acanthus leaves symbolize the heavenly backyard, however in addition they characterize rebirth, immortality, and resurrection. It seems like a really acceptable adornment for this fob that grieves for France’s enslaved inhabitants whereas calling the nation to embrace a greater future.

Necessary concerns

Whereas it might be fantastic to easily say “all abolitionist jewellery is sweet as a result of abolishing slavery is an efficient trigger,” the actual fact is that there are lots of lower than excellent parts to those fascinating artworks that we should acknowledge.

To begin, allow us to return to the Wedgwood medallion. Josiah Wedgwood’s intentions might have been constructive, however his imagery is unreservedly problematic.

This Wedgewood anti-slavery medallion was made in 1787 to support the abolitionist movement. Metropolitan Museum of Art.

The depiction of this Black determine prostrating himself earlier than the viewer along with his palms upraised in supplication implies that the enslaved man is a weak, pitiable determine humbly imploring the (presumably white) abolitionists of late 1700’s London for his or her charitable help. All the pieces about it suggests submission and helplessness to an extent that belies the equality prompt by medallion’s slogan.

The Wedgwood medallion might have impressed abolitionist imagery throughout two continents, however it’s additionally vitally vital to make clear the objectives of London’s Society for the Abolition of the Slave Commerce, for whom the medallion was initially created. The Society was combating particularly for the abolition of the slave commerce solely. They didn’t advocate for at the moment enslaved folks to be freed or for slavery to outlawed.

Regardless that Josiah Wedgwood was personally an abolitionist, he undeniably benefited from the existence of the slave commerce. The Wedgwood firm was immensely financially profitable and far of that revenue got here from aristocratic shoppers who used wealth earned each instantly and not directly from the slave commerce to buy its wares.

On high of that, Wedgwood primarily made ceramic housewares, which might have been utilized in home service to current meals that was typically planted, harvested and/or ready by enslaved and colonized folks.

Abolitionist jewelry of the 18th and 19th century anti-slavery movement, three examples

One should additionally ask: who’s the person on the Wedgwood medallion? Was he modeled on an actual individual, or is he merely an artist’s amalgam of exaggerated traits stereotypically related to enslaved males?

If there was a mannequin, was he paid for his time? Did he consent to the usage of his picture for this function? Was that consent given in a scenario that made saying “no” doable? Why isn’t his identify a part of this story?

The identical goes for the feminine determine on the ladies’s model of the design and the profile on the French fob. We don’t know any of those solutions, however they’re vital inquiries to ask.

Lastly: there’s the truth that I’m white and so are the vintage jewellery sellers who shared these items of abolitionist jewellery with me. That’s an vital level that deserves its personal part.

Privilege & Perspective

As a result of I’m a white lady, it’s not doable for me to know the way it feels to expertise abolitionist jewellery as a descendant of the enslaved those that these artworks depict and even as an individual with the identical pores and skin colour because the figures on these artworks.

I’ve tried to do justice to this topic by presenting the data thoughtfully and with consciousness of how my very own identification informs my standpoint, however I additionally wish to acknowledge that there are very important parts of this jewellery class that I can not personally expertise.

I want to invite you all to proceed this dialogue by sharing your ideas about abolitionist jewellery with me, both within the feedback part beneath, via social media, or privately although e-mail. My socials and e-mail are linked on the high of this web page.

Should you’d wish to be taught extra in regards to the historical past of Black figures in vintage artwork and jewellery, I extremely advocate the writings of Tanzy Ward, an vintage jewellery supplier who has written two books about this steadily neglected topic. (I’m at the moment studying her ebook Unsung Portraits: Nameless Pictures of Black Victorians and Early twentieth Century Ancestors.)

Discover Tanzy’s web site right here and her Instagram right here.

I additionally extremely advocate Nia Tahani of The Gem Corps’s Instagram collection about de-stigmatizing and rehoming vintage Blackamoor fashion jewellery – it’s fascinating and very insightful. Chances are you’ll acknowledge Nia’s identify from my current function on her Black historical past and social justice talisman, Candy Chairiot.

Discover The Gem Corps web site right here and Nia’s Instagram right here.

Thanks for approaching this jewellery journey with me, my darlings.

Abolitionist jewellery is an interesting and nuanced subcategory of jewellery historical past and it has been my completely honor to share these significant treasures from the previous with you right now.

Sources:

“Am I Not a Girl and a Sister: Girls and the Anti-Slavery Marketing campaign.” Girl and Her Sphere, 1 Oct. 2012, womanandhersphere.com/2012/10/01/am-i-not-a-woman-and-a-sister-women-and-the-anti-slavery-campaign/.

Anti-Slavery Medallion, The Artwork Institute of Chicago, www.artic.edu/artworks/66185/anti-slavery-medallion.

“Anti-Slavery Cameo.” On-line Assortment of the Walters Artwork Museum, The Walters Artwork Museum , 1 Aug. 2022, artwork.thewalters.org/element/17899/anti-slavery-medallion/.Jacobs, Sandy. Conversations with vintage supplier, January 2023.

Jacobs, Sandy. Video of uncommon abolitionist miniature, Instagram, November 7, 2023.

“Josiah Wedgwood: Antislavery Medallion: British, Etruria, Staffordshire.” The Metropolitan Museum of Artwork, www.metmuseum.org/artwork/assortment/search/191076. Accessed 17 June 2024.

Nationwide Museum of American Historical past Smithsonian Establishment. “Antislavery Medallion. www.flickr.com/images/nationalmuseumofamericanhistory/8360976981.

Oldfield, Dr John. “Historical past – British Historical past in Depth: British Anti-Slavery.” BBC, BBC, 17 Feb. 2011, www.bbc.co.uk/historical past/british/empire_seapower/antislavery_01.shtml.

Peters, Hayden. “Symbolism, the Acanthus.” Artwork of Mourning, 10 Jan. 2022, artofmourning.com/symbolism-sunday-the-acanthus/.

Shapiro, Jennifer. Private emails with vintage supplier, January 2023.

Stoehrer, Emily. “’Slave-in-Chains’ Medallion.” Museum of Positive Arts Boston, Museum of Positive Arts Boston, 16 Feb. 2017, www.mfa.org/entry/2017/slave-in-chains-medallion.

The Wedgwood Anti-Slavery Medallion · V&A, Victoria and Albert Museum, www.vam.ac.uk/articles/the-wedgwood-anti-slavery-medallion.

“Token with ‘Am I Not a Girl and Sister.’” Nationwide Museum of African American Historical past and Tradition, nmaahc.si.edu/object/nmaahc_2018.52.

“Wedgwood Anti Slavery Medal.” Odyssey Traveller, www.odysseytraveller.com/articles/wedgwood-anti-slavery-medallion/.