Chimings from the Steppes – Artwork Jewellery Discussion board

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  • You’ve probably by no means visited Kazakhstan.
  • You in all probability dwell at the least 10,000 kilometers from Almaty, the most important metropolis within the nation, and will not even know its title.
  • Is there trendy jewelry-making there? (Spoiler: there may be now!)
  • Can jewellery artwork mix the previous and the current? (One other spoiler: it might probably!)
Ilya Kazakov, Art, 2020, ring in silver, paintbrushes, copper, bone, brass, wood, hot enamel, jade, chrysoprase, 2 x 1 ¾ inches (50 x 45 mm), photo: Kamilla Barysbekova
Ilya Kazakov, Artwork, 2020, ring in silver, paintbrushes, copper, bone, brass, wooden, scorching enamel, jade, chrysoprase, 2 x 1 ¾ inches (50 x 45 mm), photograph: Kamilla Barysbekova

As soon as upon a time, there was a exceptional jewellery custom in Kazakhstan. Extremely symbolic, it mirrored the nomadic essence of its individuals, their beliefs, and their household traditions. Underneath Soviet rule, nevertheless, a lot of the nation’s traditions have been misplaced. When an impartial Kazakhstan emerged within the Nineteen Nineties, a brand new interval of bijou artwork emerged. This text is about among the trendy jewelers of Kazakhstan. I’d wager nothing about them, however their artwork is exclusive and engaging.

Zhanna Assanova, Find Your Voice, 2024, hair (braid) jewelry in recycled textiles, waste product from sewing, coins, 9 ⅞ x 5 ½ inches (250 x 140 mm), photo: Kamilla Barysbekova
Zhanna Assanova, Discover Your Voice, 2024, hair (braid) jewellery in recycled textiles, waste product from stitching, cash, 9 ⅞ x 5 ½ inches (250 x 140 mm), photograph: Kamilla Barysbekova

The Kazhak jewellery artist Zhanna Assanova based the Syldyr undertaking, an initiative that exists to contribute to the event of latest jewellery in Kazakhstan.[1] She shares the story behind its creation: “I selected the title Syldyr as a result of it means ‘chime,’ in Kazakh. It refers back to the sound of conventional hair adornments comprised of miniature silver coin-like pendants on skinny chains, which introduced the strategy of their proprietor. They’re connected to the hair (braids) in addition to to the temple.” The adornments are referred to as shashbau. (In Kazakh, shashin means hair.) In line with legend, the melodic jingling of the shashbau protects its proprietor in opposition to evil spirits.

Assanova has created work impressed by this conventional jewellery. It’s referred to as Discover Your Voice. “In my design,” she says, “the cash are sealed shut with melted plastic, stopping them from chiming. I see this as a metaphor for the silencing of girls’s voices. Can we even hear our personal voices?”

Zhanna Assanova, founder of the Syldyr project, at the opening of the Treasure Island exhibition, September 19, 2024, photo: Forte Bank Kulanshi Art Space
Zhanna Assanova, founding father of the Syldyr undertaking, on the opening of the Treasure Island exhibition, September 19, 2024, photograph: Forte Financial institution Kulanshi Artwork Area

The chiming of the Syldyr undertaking heralds one thing new and thrilling for the Kazakh jewellery scene. To offer some context, Assanova describes a couple of key examples of conventional Kazakh jewellery. In reality, nearly each stage of Kazakh life is accompanied by jewellery. For instance, a person’s mom places earrings on his future bride, signifying an intention to marry. “That is considerably analogous to the Western engagement ring,” says Assanova.

Engagement earrings, Kazakhyuvelir production, 2006, 14-karat gold, photo: Iris Mambur
Engagement earrings, Kazakhyuvelir manufacturing, 2006, 14-karat gold, photograph: Iris Mambur

“The act of placing on the earrings is an entire ritual that may’t be ignored,” says Assanova. “The woman wears these earrings till the marriage.” This custom continues in the present day. Assanova herself acquired earrings. “I plan to go mine to my daughter,” she says, “ought to she ever want to have them.”

Matchmaker ring by unknown maker purchased at one of the fairs held in Astana, 2022, silver, turquoise, photo: Iris Mambur
Matchmaker ring by unknown maker bought at one of many gala’s held in Astana, 2022, silver, turquoise, photograph: Iris Mambur

One other conventional adornment, the two-finger ring Kudagy Zhuzik, is also called the Matchmaker’s Ring. Historically, the bride’s mom offers it to the groom’s mom a 12 months after the marriage. “It matches two fingers—the ring finger and the center finger—symbolizing the union of two households,” explains Assanova.

Kazakh jewellery artwork has undergone numerous phases, from the Kazakh Khanate[2] by the interval of erasing traditions throughout the Soviet period to the revival of curiosity in cultural roots within the Nineteen Nineties, when the nation gained independence. All through these modifications, the connection to mythology and mysticism remained, whatever the historic context. Jeweler Serzhan Bashirov, who participated within the Syldyr undertaking, shares a narrative from childhood. “I went to the museum with my grandmother and noticed a cracked carnelian,” remembers Bashirov. “My grandmother defined that it didn’t crack as a result of it was dropped or hit, however due to the ‘evil eye.’” Folks consider the brilliant pink shade absorbs dangerous vitality and progressively cracks consequently. If the stone incorporates a gap, it means the dangerous vitality handed by it.

Serzhan Bashirov, Waves of the Irtysh, 2020 brooch in wood, silver, lapis lazuli, mother-of-pearl, 5 ⅞ x 4 inches (150 x 100 mm), photo: artist
Serzhan Bashirov, Waves of the Irtysh, 2020 brooch in wooden, silver, lapis lazuli, mother-of-pearl, 5 ⅞ x 4 inches (150 x 100 mm), photograph: artist

However how do up to date jewelers mix traditions and modernity? Jeweler Tabigat Kuzhanbayev, a participant in Syldyr, shares his perspective. “My title interprets as ‘nature.’ I attempt to work in a means that doesn’t hurt nature. I create all the things utilizing discovered supplies. Usually, even my granddaughter brings me issues she finds on the road!”

Tabigat Kuzhanbaev, from the Tomiris series of necklaces, 2024, plastic, reflector, photo: Kamilla Barysbekova
Tabigat Kuzhanbaev, from the Tomiris collection of necklaces, 2024, plastic, reflector, photograph: Kamilla Barysbekova

The tumar (or tumarsha), a conventional Kazakh amulet, might need a triangular form however is also cylindrical. The small casket opened, to put a word inside. This letter contained phrases of assist from a mom to a daughter who was getting married. When the woman, now a spouse, confronted difficulties in her marriage, she opened the amulet and skim her mom’s message to seek out consolation. “My jewellery doesn’t open,” says Kuzhanbayev, “however its form references this conventional merchandise. On the heart is a portrait of Queen Tomyris, a warrior from the Kazakh steppes, as if gazing at us by the porthole of a spaceship.”

Tabigat Kuzhanbaev, from the Tomiris series of necklaces, 2024, leather, plastic, washing-machine parts, rubber, 25 ½ x 23 ⅝ x 6 ¼ inches (650 x 600 x 160 mm), photo: Kamilla Barysbekova
Tabigat Kuzhanbaev, from the Tomiris collection of necklaces, 2024, leather-based, plastic, washing-machine components, rubber, 25 ½ x 23 ⅝ x 6 ¼ inches (650 x 600 x 160 mm), photograph: Kamilla Barysbekova

Ecological features and the sense of belonging to and loving her homeland additionally current themselves within the works of jeweler Gulnara Urisbayeva. “The principle theme of my works for the Syldyr undertaking is the problem of disappearing water sources in Kazakhstan,” she says. “Within the Aral earrings, a form exhibits what the Aral Sea seemed like in the midst of the twentieth century and what has occurred to it over nearly 50 years.” Intensive irrigation and the event of hydroelectric energy within the area has brought on 90 p.c of the ocean to dry up. “This is among the largest environmental catastrophes of the twentieth century,” says the jeweler.

Gulnara Urisbaeva, Aral Sea, 2024, earrings in silver, cupronickel, plastic, 8 ¼ x 5 ½ inches (210 x 140 mm), photo: Kamilla Barysbekova
Gulnara Urisbaeva, Aral Sea, 2024, earrings in silver, cupronickel, plastic, 8 ¼ x 5 ½ inches (210 x 140 mm), photograph: Kamilla Barysbekova

Urisbayeva’s Caspian necklace depicts the Caspian Sea and its delta from house. 5 nations encircle this physique of water: Kazakhstan, Russia, Turkmenistan, Azerbaijan, and Iran. “The present state of the ocean is near catastrophic because of the energetic extraction of oil from the seabed,” says the jeweler. The necklace’s form references the type of the alqa, the Kazakh chest amulet which protects its proprietor from misfortune. “On this means,” says Urisbayeva, “I needed to create a type of protecting amulet for our distinctive Caspian Sea.”

Gulnara Urisbayeva, Caspy, 2024, necklace in cupronickel, leather, plastic, 5 ½ inches (140 mm) x 23 ⅝ (600 mm) long including chain and bells, photo: Kamilla Barysbekova
Gulnara Urisbayeva, Caspy, 2024, necklace in cupronickel, leather-based, plastic, 5 ½ inches (140 mm) x 23 ⅝ (600 mm) lengthy together with chain and bells, photograph: Kamilla Barysbekova

Raim Kenzhebayev presently lives in Austria, the place he research below Petra Zimmermann. Once I have a look at his earrings, I instantly image steppes, highly effective horses, and daring riders. “As I used to be creating the earrings Heritage, Identification and Alternative,” he says, “I considered house, with the horsehair symbolizing Kazakh tradition, its deep connection to nomadic life, and the importance of horses.”

Raim Kenzhebayev, Heritage, Identity and Choice, 2023, earrings in silver, horsehair, 23 ⅝ x ¾ inches (600 x 20 mm), photo: Klara Dvorat
Raim Kenzhebayev, Heritage, Identification and Alternative, 2023, earrings in silver, horsehair, 23 ⅝ x ¾ inches (600 x 20 mm), photograph: Klara Dvorat

“All through my life, I’ve usually confronted expectations of what it means to be a ‘true’ Kazakh: to observe a sure faith, to honor traditions which regularly felt unfamiliar or overseas to me. My demeanor and outlook have been topic to criticism,” says Kenzhebayev. “I consider that, regardless of cultural norms, we should always all have the liberty to outline our personal id and the position of heritage in our lives. I would like the wearer to do no matter they like with the earrings—reduce, reshape, dye them, or just go away them as they’re.”

Raim Kenzhebayev, Heritage, Identity and Choice, 2023, earrings in silver, horsehair, 23 ⅝ x ¾ inches (600 x 20 mm), photo: Klara Dvorat
Raim Kenzhebayev, Heritage, Identification and Alternative, 2023, earrings in silver, horsehair, 23 ⅝ x ¾ inches (600 x 20 mm), photograph: Klara Dvorat

Kenzhebayev initially deliberate to make use of an natural materials. “At first, I thought-about human hair, but it surely felt too heavy and nearly overwhelming given the intimacy and emotional weight related to it.” He selected horsehair as a substitute. “For me, animals, notably horses, really feel simpler and lighter, as I’ve solely constructive associations with them. Rising up, I usually heard tales about horses being noble companions to people.”

Dulat Ashimov, Kozhe, 2020, ring in agate, acrylic, 3 ⅛ x 2 ⅜ inches (80 x 60 mm), photo: Kamilla Barysbekova
Dulat Ashimov, Kozhe, 2020, ring in agate, acrylic, 3 ⅛ x 2 ⅜ inches (80 x 60 mm), photograph: Kamilla Barysbekova


Educating the native public a couple of new discipline like artwork jewellery isn’t any simple activity. Nonetheless, says Assanova, “I’m assured that we now have the potential to creatively reinterpret and inform the story of nationwide traditions, to showcase our artists at worldwide exhibitions, and to host up to date jewellery occasions in Kazakhstan.” I want her the easiest in these efforts!

[1] Pronounced sɯlˈdɯr. The Syldyr undertaking’s crew additionally consists of Katia Rabey and Yevgenia Kazakova. In 2024, they organized the Treasure Island exhibition, at Forte Kulanshi Artwork Area, in Almaty. The present’s major objective was to introduce conceptual jewellery to the Kazakh viewers. The exhibition featured jewelers from all around the world, together with famend worldwide stars. All the artists featured on this article participated in Treasure Island.

[2] A Kazakh state in Central Asia that existed from the fifteenth to the nineteenth centuries.

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