Paris, Metropolis of Pearls opens at L’ÉCOLE College of Jewellery Arts
I don’t know but if I’ll have an opportunity to see Paris, Metropolis of Pearls in individual, however this exhibition is simply too spectacular to not share with you! Let’s have a look.
Exhibition Paris, Metropolis of Pearls – Picture Dylan Dubois
There’s an thrilling new jewellery exhibit on the town! Paris, Metropolis of Pearls has opened at L’ÉCOLE, College of Jewellery Arts (the jewellery college supported by Van Cleef & Arpels) and it seems like a can’t miss for any jewellery lovers within the space.
What makes Paris the town of pearls? In accordance with the exhibition supplies:
From the late 1860s to the late Thirties – a interval similar to France’s Third Republic – a majority of the pearls fished within the Gulf have been progressively dropped at France, offered in Paris and mounted by the highest jewelers of the Place Vendôme. Account books, telegrams, archive paperwork and interval pictures testify to the size of this commerce.
Routes throughout land, sea after which sky have been opened, main figures emerged in each the Gulf and France, fortunes have been made, and the pearl commerce sparked an unprecedented financial growth. As new commerce routes have been developed, hyperlinks have been solid between individuals and cultures – from the France of the primary third of the twentieth century to the Gulf nations, referred to by the French on the time because the “pearl coast.”
In addition to celebrating nearly a century of shared historical past, this exhibition units out to indicate the extent to which each pure pearls and the classy pearls that arrived in France within the Twenties impressed not solely Parisian jewelers but additionally artists within the broader sense. All of them appear to have been pushed by the identical ardour for pearls, no matter their technique of creative expression – opera, portray, pictures, poster design, illustration or cinema – to the purpose that the pearl grew to become one of many symbolic types of the Roaring Twenties.
Searching for to penetrate the ultimate mysteries of those biominerals, the exhibition embraces a crossover of historical past, artwork and science. This wide-ranging imaginative and prescient of data is on the coronary heart of L’ÉCOLE’s mission. Based in 2012 with assist from Van Cleef & Arpels, L’ÉCOLE invitations the general public to study in regards to the historical past of bijou and the abilities concerned, and about gems, by means of courses, talks, publications and exhibitions, in Paris and elsewhere on this planet.”
Paris, Metropolis of Pearls presents 100 items of bijou in addition to paperwork and drawings from prestigious lenders just like the Paris Museum of Ornamental Arts, the Petit Palais – Advantageous Arts Museum of Paris, heritage collections of the Maisons Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier and Fred, and the distinctive Albion Artwork personal assortment.
I don’t have images of all the treasures of the Paris, Metropolis of Pearls exhibition, however L’ÉCOLE, College of Jewellery Arts was type sufficient to ship me some pictures to share with you.
© Albion Artwork Jewelry Institute
This necklace is just about excellent, in my humble opinion. It’s easy, glamorous, and dramatic in one of the best ways. I completely adore the distinction between the sleek, curvy, rectangular pearls with the crisp geometry of the center component that suspends them.
The form makes me marvel if this magnificence might need been fitted to an non-obligatory tiara body at one level in historical past, however the Paris, Metropolis of Pearls exhibit doesn’t point out this, so maybe that’s simply wishful pondering on my half.
This pearl necklace was made in 1890 and options pure pearls and diamonds set in gold and silver.
© Picture L’ÉCOLE, College of Jewellery Arts – Benjamin Chelly
A powerful distinction to the frilly items above, this light-as-air pearl dragonfly ring from the Artwork Nouveau period dates to 1910 and is the work of the well-known René Lalique ring. It incorporates a pure pearl, diamonds, and enamel in yellow gold.
Loaned to Paris, Metropolis of Pearls exhibition by a personal collector.
© Albion Artwork Jewelry Institute
One of many coolest subgenres of pearl jewellery is when oddly-shaped baroque pearls are remodeled into tiny sculptures by the addition of inventive parts.
This owl pendant, circa 1880, is a improbable instance of the approach at its most interesting: that’s a pure pearl within the center, remodeled from nameless lumpiness by the addition of the owl’s toes and head. I particularly love the rose minimize eyes, the small print on the department, and the owl’s options.
This piece incorporates a baroque pearl with diamonds, rubies, and gold. Loaned to Paris, Metropolis of Pearls from Albion Artwork Institute.
I don’t imply to select favorites, however BONJOUR to this totally spectacular Artwork Deco period pearl bag. Have a look at the tiny onyx particulars alongside the body of the bag, the beautiful hyperlinks of the chain, the woven seed pearls!
Made by Van Cleef & Arpels and presently within the Van Cleef & Arpels Assortment, this beautiful night bag dates to 1924 and is produced from platinum with woven pearls, onyx, and diamonds.
I discussed above that Paris, Metropolis of Pearls exhibition additionally incorporates quite a few drawings and paperwork together with quite a few pleasant jewellery editorials and advertisements.
Titled “The Fountain of Shells. Paquin Night Robe,” and drawn by George Barbier, this web page appeared within the Gazette du bon ton, no. 3, plate 27, in 1914.
© Albion Artwork Jewelry Institute
This magnificent matched set is a necklace and earrings that belonged to Edith Amelia Glyn, Woman Wolverton (1896–1902).
These treasures have been made by Frédéric Boucheron and have pure pearls and diamonds set in gold and silver. Loaned to Paris, Metropolis of Pearls by the Albion Artwork Institute.
This pendant is one other private favourite – I can’t resist the juxtaposition of lumpy pearls with exact geometry.
Made in 1880 by Germain Bapst and Lucien Falize, this pendant options gray pure pearls and diamonds in gold. Loaned to Paris, Metropolis of Pearls by Wartski.
How about one other editorial?
This one options the artwork of Jean-Gabriel Domergue and is an commercial for the Maison Van Cleef & Arpels, from La Renaissance de l’artwork français et des industries de luxe, January 1923.
© Faerber
From summary to figural, we’re wanting subsequent at this totally enchanting bodice decoration by Henri Vever. In case you acknowledge that title, it’s as a result of Mr. Vever was among the best identified jewelers in Europe in his day, particularly identified for his Artwork Nouveau designs. Not exhausting to imagine taking a look at this stunner, is it?
This bodice decoration was loaned to Paris, Metropolis of Pearls by Faerber.
© Picture L’ÉCOLE, College of Jewellery Arts – Benjamin Chelly
The Artwork Deco period is understood for its spectacular use of pearls and this brooch is about as Deco because it will get. Relationship to 1925, this marvelously dramatic brooch options pure pearls and diamonds in platinum.
Loaned to Paris Metropolis of Pearls exhibition by a personal assortment.
© Albion Artwork Jewelry Institute
This distinctive necklace is the work of one other large title (or pair of names): it’s by Carlo and Arturo Giuliano. In case you look intently, you possibly can see their signature delicate enamel work on the mountings suspending the pearl drops.
This piece dates to 1890 and options pure pearls and enamel in gold. Loaned to Paris, Metropolis of Pearls by Albion Artwork Institute.
That is one other Artwork Deco brooch, however a barely later one – and the distinction in period reveals within the 1930’s sensuality that this lengthy and languorous piece exudes. Created by Dusausoy, this piece is circa 1930 and options pure pearls and diamonds in platinum.
Loaned to Paris Metropolis of Pearls by Symbolic & Chase, London.
Essentially the most trendy piece from Paris, Metropolis of Pearls that we’re taking a look at at this time, this charismatic modern design is JAR’s Sheep’s head brooch.
Created in 2006, this brooch options pure pearls and cabochon star sapphires in aluminum with silver and gold.
This spectacular Gladiator is one other instance of a baroque pearl changed into a determine by means of inventive embellishment. I particularly love the big diamond that represents the face.
It’s a MidCentury piece, created by Van Cleef & Arpels in 1956, and options emeralds, rubies, turquoise, pearls, a baroque pearl, and diamonds in yellow gold.
Exhibition Paris, Metropolis of Pearls – Picture Dylan Dubois
Paris, Metropolis of Pearls is at L’ÉCOLE, College of Jewellery Arts till June 1, 2025, so you continue to have time to recover from there! Admission is free, however reservations are required. Extra information right here.
In case you (like me) are unlikely to make it over to Paris within the subsequent few months, don’t despair! The exhibit’s catalog has been revealed as a brand new guide, and you should purchase Paris, Metropolis of Pearls on your private jewellery library right here.
Need extra pearls? Discover my shoppable Trendy Pearl Jewellery wishlist right here, my Pearl weblog put up archive right here, and my Pearl Pinterest board right here. All images are c/o L’ÉCOLE, College of Jewellery Arts.
This put up incorporates affiliate hyperlinks.
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