A Journey Via Time, Craftsmanship, and Ardour

Each March, the town of Maastricht transforms into the epicenter of world artwork and design with the arrival of TEFAF, one of many world’s most prestigious artwork festivals. Whereas masterpieces from historical past’s biggest painters steal many headlines, a smaller, extra intimate part of the honest reveals a panoramic world of excessive and modern jewellery. On this long-form story, I take you behind the scenes to fulfill the distinctive artists, uncover beautiful items, and share private moments that made this yr’s TEFAF jewellery choice really unforgettable.

TEFAF Maastricht is not only an artwork honest however an annual pilgrimage for collectors, museum consumers, and buyers, all looking for that singular masterpiece that may elevate their collections. Nestled within the coronary heart of the Netherlands, simply two hours from my hometown, the occasion is an elite gathering the place personal jets fill the skies and the nationwide information covers new discoveries with fervor. Annually, TEFAF surprises with groundbreaking finds from the world’s most celebrated artists, and this yr was no exception.

 The TEFAF entrance is breathtakingly lovely

The house for jewellery manufacturers at TEFAF is restricted, making the choice all of the extra unique. The few chosen to exhibit signify the top of expertise, artistry, and heritage. Classic and vintage jewellery sellers additionally showcase a few of the most breathtaking collections, however sadly, my schedule was too packed to go to all of them.

Some of the profound experiences of my go to was assembly German jewellery artist Otto Jakob. His work epitomizes storytelling by means of craftsmanship, with each bit imbued with symbolism, historical past, and unparalleled artistry. A specific piece that captivated me was the Papaver cross pendant, crafted from vegetable ivory—the nut of the tropical tagua palm.

Otto Jakob

Earlier than plastic existed, these nuts had been extensively used for button-making and ivory carving. Their outer shell is so extremely arduous that, within the wild, solely the agouti—a rodent bigger than its cousin, the guinea pig—can crack them open. Otto’s fascination with this materials led him to create a bit with mesmerizing brain-like motifs. At its coronary heart lies an exquisitely engraved coral poppy, an concept that got here to him whereas strolling in his backyard. The pendant is a quiet, natural masterpiece set in a fragile yellow gold body with enameled stamens and stamped rose gold particulars. Not like conventional excessive jewellery, Otto Jakob’s work by no means screams luxurious. As a substitute, it speaks by means of its supplies, particulars, and sheer craftsmanship, making it cherished by collectors worldwide.

Margot McKinney has lengthy fascinated me, notably for her use of baroque pearls and my private favourite gemstone, opals. At TEFAF, she unveiled the Marina necklace, a tribute to the Nice Barrier Reef. Accompanied by Aji Ellies, a fifth-generation pearl farmer, Margot shared insights into the extraordinary journey of those pearls, cultivated in distant oceanic farms over years. The necklace options breathtaking Australian South Sea baroque pearls complemented by inexperienced beryl, aquamarine, and inexperienced tourmaline interwoven with diamonds, sapphires, paraibas, and tsavorites. The presentation was mesmerizing, deepening my appreciation for her dedication to nature’s most beautiful treasures.

 Margot McKinney giving an knowledgeable speak about her jewellery

Margot McKinney Jewellery

FORMS has secured a spot in my coronary heart with its modern strategy to jewellery. Based in 2010 by Elad Assor and Tzvika Janover, this excessive jewellery home operates solely by appointment in Hong Kong and Geneva. The title itself—FORMS—completely encapsulates their philosophy: daring shapes, distinctive gems, and avant-garde craftsmanship. I discovered myself notably drawn to their earrings, which, regardless of their daring presence, maintained a complicated and wearable class. Each bit is meticulously handcrafted utilizing ethically sourced uncommon gems, mixing historic strategies with modern design.

Varieties sapphire ring

Varieties earrings

Varieties emerald ring with a big Colombian emerald within the centre

The Munich-based home Hemmerle at all times surprises, mixing historic components with trendy craftsmanship. One specific pair of earrings caught my consideration—crafted from fossilized dinosaur bones. It was an unimaginable second to carry a bit of prehistoric historical past reworked into a piece of wearable artwork. One other pair, that includes pure drop-shaped pearls, was equally enthralling. Hemmerle’s philosophy stays constant: understated but daring, by no means ostentatious however at all times modern, with daring use of metals like brass and aluminum. Their Nature Assortment stays a private favourite, but they unveil one thing refreshingly new every year.

Hemmerle earring

Hemmerle earrings with fossilized dinosaur bone

Hemmerle, diamonds and pearls

Hemmerle Earrings with two gorgeous pure pearls.

The Taiwanese-born, Monaco-based jewellery designer Anna Hu introduced a mesmerizing assortment of butterflies, a nod to her surname, which phonetically resembles the Chinese language phrase for butterfly. One piece, adorned with a surprising row of Burmese pigeon-blood rubies, stood out with its unimaginable depth of shade. With 2025 being the 12 months of the Snake, Anna additionally showcased a set of serpentine jewellery, reflecting each the symbolic and private connection she holds with the theme. Her designs stay enchanting and deeply rooted in cultural storytelling.

 Anna Hu 12 months of the Snake necklace

Anna Hu Brooch

Buccellati has at all times been synonymous with intricate engraving and impeccable craftsmanship. At TEFAF, they displayed each beloved collections and silver objets d’artwork. A spotlight for me was reconnecting with their heat and welcoming staff, whom I first met at their boutique on Capri. However what really stole my coronary heart was an astonishing silver deer, sculpted from a single piece of silver, with fur so meticulously engraved it regarded virtually lifelike. It was a testomony to Buccellati’s mastery in metalwork and design.

Buccellati Silver ( made out of 1 piece of silver)

Buccellati Bracelets

Feng J debuted at TEFAF together with her ‘Hortensia de Giverny’ collection, introducing the ‘Rising Gem’ approach—a groundbreaking setting that positions gems vertically, making a three-dimensional backyard of jewels. Her ‘Comme Moi’ brooch stood out, that includes an Australian opal at its heart, surrounded by an intricate spectrum of 1,200 pavé stones. The usage of a Floating Set, her signature approach, allowed the gems to look weightless, emphasizing the ethereal nature of her work. Her ‘Toi et Moi’ brooch, designed as two sculptural leaves that may be worn individually, additional showcased her mastery of latest jewellery artwork.

Feng J.

Feng J.

Santi Jewels, based by Krishna Choudhary, bridges the legacy of Mughal jewellery with trendy craftsmanship. Impressed by the grandeur of the Nice Mughal period, Choudhary’s designs replicate India’s wealthy inventive heritage, reimagined by means of modern strategies. His work echoes Golconda diamonds, Colombian emeralds, and uncommon spinels—historic treasures that proceed to affect high-quality jewellery at this time. Of all the jewellery exhibitors on the present, sadly, this was the one home that did not permit us to take footage.

With Sanne Bogers en Heleen Hoogenboom, from the Hoogenboom & Bogers

TEFAF Maastricht is not simply an artwork honest however an immersive expertise the place tales unfold by means of artistry and historical past. From the meticulous vetting course of making certain authenticity to the grandeur of personal collectors vying for masterpieces, each ingredient of this honest appears like stepping right into a dream. Whereas this yr’s occasion noticed a small Extinction Insurrection protest in opposition to personal jets, the overwhelming focus remained on the extraordinary objects on show.

 Classic Micro Mosaic jewellery

What makes TEFAF so distinctive is not only the jewellery or the artworks however the folks—the designers, artisans, and curators who breathe life into each creation. I depart every year with renewed awe and gratitude, realizing I’m lucky to witness these unimaginable tales firsthand. Till subsequent yr, TEFAF, you’ve left me totally enchanted once more.